A Few Ideas For Vital Issues For Ball Gowns

Feb 13, 2017  

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So, here's what I learned on my short, whistle stop tour of the schedule: 1 | Death of the suit Left and right: Hugo Boss Menswear Show, Centre: Ralph Lauren Purple Label The concept of the 'broken suit' - a non matching jacket and trouser combo designed to be worn together - is nothing new. Yet Hugo Boss' new creative director Ingo Wilts consolidated the idea with a collection aimed at the needs of the 'global traveller' - fashion shorthand for business men (and women) who travel a lot. For Boss's first men's runway show since 2008, Wilts produced wider, outsize jackets and coats in heavy, dense grey and navy wools mixed with sportier nylon parka shapes with slimmer peacoats and duffles thrown in for good layering measure. Over at the Ralph Lauren Purple Label presentation, the man himself was present - rocking some fringed suede black pants under his olive green quilted jacket - the epitome of insouciant American sportswear and layering. His Purple Label is known for its super expensive tailored suiting yet they were few and far between here. The emphasis instead was on softer, unstructured shapes - tailored in feel yet constructed as knitted jackets or outerwear with no inner linings. Textured layers were key - in the form of suede, distressed leather, flannel and knitwear. I counted just 3 knitted ties in the entire presentation. Industry stalwart Joseph Abboud - an ex Ralph Lauren designer no less - extended the theme at his show with enormous black leather and suede coats over unstructured jacket and knitwear. 2 | Political messages are key When RAF Simons announced he would move his menswear runway show to New York - after over 20 years in Europe - to avoid any logistical disruption to his debut as creative director of Calvin Klein, the New York fashion world breathed a collective sigh of relief.

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